14/9/09
So Ive been here for almost a week now and Im just getting the chance to sit down with my thoughts and attempt to get them down on paper (or I guess on screen) Ive been having a million thoughts go through my head since I set foot off the plane at Ben Gurion airport, but it is always hard for me to organize them in to something coherent and readable….. I shall do my best but I make no promises.
Before I get in to all the lovely things I have done so far this week. I wanted to share my thoughts on my first Rosh Hashanah here. One would think that with the amount of times Ive traveled to Israel and/or Palestine I would have been here for the high holidays before, but alas this was my first time, and I found my self to be both excited and conflicted. Which reminded me of feeling the exact same way a year ago when I was here for Pesach.
For most major Jewish Holidays Israel basically seals off the west bank. Only Internationals and Palestinians with permits, and who are over 45 If they are women and 50 if they are men are allowed through. This was particularly disturbing to me a year ago when I went to Jerusalem for Pesach, which is a holiday that celebrates the Jewish peoples deliverance from bondage, and subsequent freedom in a new land (this land). It is hard for me to see how the Israeli government justifies taking away one peoples freedom to celebrate their own. The general argument of suicide attacks could be given, but I have a suspicion that the real reason is so they wont need as many soldiers at the check points so more of them can go home for the holidays. Which is nice for those soldiers, and a complete disregard of the human rights of the Palestinian people.
This Rosh Hashanah (Jewish new year) happened to coincide with the end of Ramadan. Israel promised that despite the border closing, they would still accommodate for the over 300,000 Palestinians expected to head to Jerusalem for the last Friday of Ramadan. But…….. “A report from the United Nations Office for the Coordination of Humanitarian Affiars (UN-OCHA) noted that last week at least 60 percent of Palestinians were denied entry to East Jerusalem on Fridays, and noted that entry of eligible Palestinians ‘proved difficult due to physical obstacles and lack of adequate arrangements on the checkpoints.’" (http://www.maannews.net/eng/ViewDetails.aspx?ID=226653&MARK=border)
I saw this first hand when I was crossing through the check point from Bethlehem to Jerusalem. When I first got there the line was not moving at all, and eventually I figured out that this was because there were no Israeli soldiers at the gate. I was worried that they had just closed it and left for the weekend, but about 20-30 minutes after I arrived two soldiers eventually made their way to the gate to decide who got to go to Jerusalem that day.
Every one pushed forward towards the gate and was trying to show their papers to the soldiers. Most of the young men were turned away. I was trying to edge my way forward, but I haven’t quite got my Palestine balls yet and I was still being the polite American I was taught to be, so my progress was slow. Eventually a man next to me pulled my arm and yelled at the soldiers and pushed me forward. In effect basically saying “look she’s blond you can let her through” This was very nice of the man, but I always feel a little guilty getting special treatment at check points…. Any ways I made it through with no more problems and got a bus for the 7 min ride to Miram and Naomi’s street. Im pretty sure If there was no check point and I could drive straight from my apt in Bethlehem to Miriam and Naomi’s apt in Talpiyot it would take about 10 mins total. It took me about an hour this time and could have taken much longer, and if I were Palestinian I probably wouldn’t have made it at all.
In ten days Jews all over the world will ask the people in their lives and God for forgiveness for the wrongs they have committed against them. As someone who wants to work in the field of conflict resolution I both long for and worry about the day when Israel will have to ask for the forgiveness of the Palestinian people for the many wrongs they commit against them every day.
Ok now that Ive written my rant for the week I will let you know about all the not so angry things I did this week. Also, a reminder from last time, this blog is also for me to remember things so if I go in to boring details I apologize I want to remember everything!
Soooo I arrived on Monday night. I was picked up at the airport by Rachel, who works at PAIDIA. (in case you’re wondering what the hell im doing here check out pidev.org) We stopped at McDonalds on the way to Bethlehem from Tel Aviv. Not the best gastronomic start for my return, but I was too tired to argue. Rachel took me to my apt in Bethlehem. I met my roommates we all hung out for a bit and chatted, and then I was exhausted so I showered and passed out.
Tuesday Sarah, the person I have mostly corresponded with from PAIDIA, came to get me from my apt at 10 and gave me a little driving tour of Bethlehem and Beit Sahour, which is where PAIDIA is located. The tours were pretty quick as Sarah was scheduled to induce labor and have a baby later that day. I also met her very adorable daughter Hibbah, who was afraid of me at first, but warmed quickly. Sarah took me to a produce place and grocery store to get some essentials, which was basically tomatoes, cucumbers, pita and Humus. Then she took me home. I decided to finish unpacking. And plan for my excursion to Ramallah/Birzeit the next day.
Wednesday I left my apt around 1:30 to go to Ramallah. I was told by my friend Rima to take a bus to Jerusalem and then to Ramallah because that would be better. I think maybe she would be correct at other times but it is Ramadan so traffic is heavier and this time it was pretty horrendous. First of all I took a wrong turn on the way to the checkpoint so a 15-20 min walk turned in to almost an hour to get to the checkpoint. Then there was a very long line, lots of pushing and shoving. Finally I got through and got on a bus to Jerusalem. But this time it was almost 4 and traffic was rather slow. Then I got on a bus to Ramallah, and I thought everything was going to be a breeze from there, but it seems some things have changed since I left. It used to be that if you were driving in to Palestine you didn’t have to get off the bus, but this time they made us get off and walk through the checkpoint and then I had to catch another bus to Ramallah.
It was nice to finally be somewhere that I was familiar with. I met up with my friends Yousef and William and we went to the only restaurant open/selling alcohol in Ramallah during Ramadan. I was starving since I hadn’t eaten since breakfast and it was about 5:30. So we got some pizza, and beer (ya know traditional Palestinian food) and chatted for awhile. Some how we got on the topic of marriage, and I was trying to explain to them that I didn’t think divorce was such a big deal, and you shouldn’t have to stay married to someone forever if its not working out. They both disagreed with me, but we had a good debate. Eventually we made it to Birzeit. I went for a walk by myself just to think and reminisce a little. It was a bit sad actually. I kept walking by peoples doors wanting to ring the bell and play with them, but knowing they didn’t live there ne more. After wandering for awhile and a quick email check at living stones I went back to William’s store, which he is very proud of, and hung out with him and Yousef for the rest of the evening.
I got back to Bethlehem Thursday afternoon, after some adventures in the old city. I then spent the rest of the day decorating and beautifying my room. It is now covered in photos of the last 4 years or so of my life and some pretty scarves. Then spent the evening bonding with my roommates which was very nice.
Friday I headed to Jerusalem for Rosh Hashanah and had the adventure described above. I got to Naomi and Miriam’s apt in the early afternoon. I helped them clean a bit since they were doing all the cooking. Then I went to dinner with Miriam to her cousin’s house. Most of the family was very nice and sane, until I was telling Miriam’s great uncle that I was from Chicago, and he said something about oh whos that guy from Chicago, and Miriam’s cousin who is our age says “Barak HUSEIN Obama” and the great uncle says oh yeah hes from Chicago, after which the young cousin says “originally from Kenya” Miriam and I just looked at eachother in shock. Seriously? Really? An Israeli Birther wtf! I can understand not agreeing with his policies, but a birther??! That’s just ridiculous. The rest of the meal went very well though and we definitely ate some delicious food.
Sat Morning I learned about synagogue hopping. We decided to go to Kol Hanishama (The reform synagogue) first and then left after the torah service to go to Kedem which is a egalitarian conservadox carlbachish shul. They don’t have their own building they they do have a lot of spirit. I am still not totally comfortable in non reform services, but I followed along well enough and knew mostly what was happening, and the singing was great. The best part was seeing OSRUI people at both services……because OSRUI people are EVERY WHERE! After the service we went to a pot luck lunch of mostly Pardes students. Pardes is I guess best described as an egalitarian yeshiva. I think most or all the teachers are men, but the students are mostly young anglo men and women of fairly liberal backgrounds. They are also also young people who have decided to dedicate this year and probably more of their lives to Jewish text study. They are all interesting and many of them funny, and I think a very good group to have around for holidays. Lunch was delicious and afterwards I vowed for the third time in a week that I would never eat again. Sat night Naomi and I decided not to go to services and to just got for a walk make our own dinner, and just generally chill. It was a pleasant evening that ended in Pecan pie….enough said ☺
Sunday morning I was awoken by Miriam to go to second day services I don’t normally observe the second day of Rosh Hashanah, but since the first day was on Shabbat they could blow the shofar, and I needed to get my shofar fix for the year, so I went with Miriam to another shul that was orthodox and also fairly egalitarian. There was a mechitzah (divider between men’s and women’s side) but it was down the middle and women participated in the service. There were also about a million babies and toddler, so when I got bored I had lots of cute faces to entertain me. After services Miriam, Naomi, and their roommate Sarah were hosting a lunch, so we went back to the apt and prepared for the guests. I have to say Miriam and Naomi pick their friends quite well. This was one of the most entertaining lunches of my life. Lots of laughing and fun stories. The only downer was when Avi, one of the guests informed the hosts that they technically lived on the Palestinian side of the green line. I kind of knew this already, but didn’t feel the need to tell them since there wasn’t anything they could do about it. Talpiyot (where Miriam, Naomi and most of Pardes lives) is thought of by most Jeruselemites as just a suburb of Jerusalem, but that’s how a lot of settlers feel about where they live.
Im not sure I would call it a settlement, but the conversation made me think about the fact that most Israelis and Jews even if they are fairly liberal still see all land to the west of the 67 green line as rightfully Israel’s and while that may be true legally. It does not explain away the 700,000 Palestinians that were kicked out of what is called “Israel Proper.” I think it is important that some day Israelis and Jews realize that while a two state solution may or may not be the answer to everyone’s problems the Palestinians had a lot more than the land east of the green line taken from them, and are owed something for this
Ok I went off on a political tangent again its hard not to do when im living here. But its passed my bed time and I start working at PAIDIA tomorrow so I need to get some sleep to make a good first impression. I realize this post is 4 pages long. Ill do my best to scale it down in the future, but like I said before no promises ☺