So several people have asked for an update on my life in Syria, and while we all know I am the world’s worst blogger I figured I could at least try for once a month. sorry its long!
I had two weeks before I started teaching when I first got here. I spent some time getting to know Aleppo, and then went to Damascus to visit an old friend and play tourist for while. The old city of Damascus is amazing. I wandered in it for hours, and still didn’t see everything. The best part though was meeting one of the few Syrian Jews still left in the country. The friend I was staying with knows him, and she introduced us. He told me there are only about 50 Jews left in the country, and people just keep leaving. He took my friend and I to one of the few Synagogues still in use in Damascus. It was beautiful, but also sad to see all the aging books, that will most likely never be replaced by new ones, as there would be no one to read them. I also got the opportunity to meet up with a professor I know who was leading a study trip in Syria, as well as a friend whom I had met on a similar trip in Israel/Palestine last year. It was nice to see some familiar faces in such a foreign country, and I felt energized and ready to start teaching and studying when I came back to Aleppo.
My main goal in coming to Syria is to improve my Arabic, and so far that part of the plan is going very well. I have an amazing Arabic teacher who, on top of giving me private lessons 3 days a week, has also been taking my on mini field trips on my days off. She is also working with a group of students from Universities in Washington DC, who are here for a few months to learn Arabic. She has taken me to a few of their events and will be taking me on any of the sight seeing trips they go on, which is nice, because most of the people I’ve met here have been here for awhile so they’re not so in to sight seeing on the weekends.
So far I am really enjoying teaching English. I have to say teaching English to adults who actually want to learn the language is definitely easier than teaching Hebrew to 12 year olds who would rather be playing Nintendo. The lesson plans are pretty much done for me. I just have to adapt them a little to each class, and if there is time try to add some games or other fun activities. My students range in age from 13 to middle age, but most of them seem to be around my age, so it is easy to connect with them, and keep the class from getting boring. One of my younger students is named Hiba, and while she is only the third Hiba I’ve ever known I think there must be some kind of magic to this name where you must be adorable if you have it.
It has also been very interesting seeing the reactions of my students to the events in Egypt. People here do not talk about politics. There is great fear of the security forces here. You never know who could be listening or even if you do know who’s listening you never know who they might be working for. Even with all this though I can tell people are very interested in Egypt. Every television in every shop I pass is tuned to Aljazeera and you can see people glued to those televisions watching the throngs of people in Tahrir square. It is very unlikely that something similar will happen in Syria. The economic situation in Syria is not as bad as it is in Egypt, and Bashar al-Assad, the President here is actually fairly well liked, so there is not the same mix of desperation and animosity, but who knows. Just watching the news here makes it seem like anything is possible.
So as far as studying and working go life is good, my social life, however, is another story.
I remember the first time I went to the West bank. I was about to start an Arabic language program at Birzeit University. At this point in my life I had travelled to Israel several times, but never ventured to “the other side” and here I was deciding to spend several months there. I told people I wasn’t worried, but in reality I was terrified. I was convinced I wasn’t going to be able to tell any one that I was Jewish or about my “Zionist upbringing.” That first week was hard for me, as I realized just how difficult it would be for me both practically and emotionally to keep lying to all these very nice people I was meeting.
Then, I don’t remember who exactly it was, but one of the staff at Birzeit was talking to the group and he said something that has always stuck with me. He was talking to us about Birzeit and Palestine being an open place. Where it matters more where you stand then who you are. This is when I knew it would be ok to tell the truth, and I’ve never looked back. I don’t mean to say that when I am in Palestine I run through the streets screaming I’m a Jew in Hebrew, but I am pretty open about my religion and my past with any one who I become friends with whether they be American, German or Palestinian. I have never gotten a negative reaction to my identity, at worst I get indifference, at best I get genuine interest in how a nice Jewish girl like me ended up in Palestine. This experience has been extremely positive for me, and I often share it with people I know who are still convinced that Palestinian animosity for Israel comes from hatred of Jews, and not an oppressive occupation.
About 6 months ago I was living in Bethlehem, and while I was having an amazing time I realized I was not accomplishing one of my main goals, which is to learn to speak Arabic at least on a conversational level. I had thought about going to Syria to study Arabic, because almost everyone I’ve ever known who speaks Arabic well learned in Syria. Sadly I didn’t have the funds to just run off and study. Then I hosted some couch surfers one of whom had been teaching English in Aleppo, Syria. I thought hey this is perfect. I can work to support my self and also take Arabic. So I contacted the school, had an interview, bought a plane ticket and a little over one month ago I found my self in the Damascus airport.
I had been told by friends who had travelled to Syria that its not a good idea to tell people I have been in Israel, or that I am Jewish. Here when people talk about Israel they don’t even say the actual name for fear of who might be listening. They call it Disneyland. Which is funny to me for several reasons, one that Walt Disney is fairly well known as an anti Semite, and also for the reason that while I’ve been to Israel/Palestine half a dozen times I’ve never been to Disneyland. I heeded my friends’ warnings and even when I had my interview over skype, I told the school I was in Chicago, when I was actually in a friend’s apartment in Beit Sahour.
I knew I was going to have to be careful, but I thought this experience would be like my experiences in Palestine. I thought that I would be able to be more open about my identity after getting to know people. This has not been the case. Currently there are only three people in Syria that know that I have spent time in Palestine/Israel and that I am Jewish. In the last few weeks I have met tons of new people and always the questions are, “have I traveled in the middle east before, how did I decide to come to Syria, what was I doing before I came here, and what do I plan to do after I leave. I’ve never thought I was very good at lying, but so far I think people buy my answer of having only travelled in Jordan and Egypt, being an international relations major, wanting to work on my Arabic, and having a friend who taught at the school where I am teaching last year, which I guess is technically all true.
I have really been enjoying my time in Syria so far. I have an amazing Arabic teacher, and I am really enjoying teaching English. Its been very interesting to watch my students try to grasp my language. The people here are warm and friendly, but every time I meet a new person, and give them a false story I feel like someone is kicking me in the stomach. It is hard to make friends when I can’t tell people about the two largest parts of my identity. I also often wonder if the Syrians would still be so warm and friendly if they knew. Deep down I think they would be. Like the teacher at Birzeit said it’s more about where you stand then who you are, but because Syria is a place where you never know who is listening and who they work for, its better if I just keep lying, as painful as that may be. I joined a gym while I’m here so I just have to hope the endorphins will keep me up beat until its time to go home